I'm so sorry for the delay in part two of my wedding story... I've been busy partying.
No, seriously.
To answer a few questions about the previous post, I do not know why the ceremony didn't start until the wee hours of the morning. I don't even know when the checkered flag dropped -- my sense of time, in regards to that night, is waaaaay off. It was pretty typical, though, so the more weddings I go to, the more I'll be able to tell you about this kind of thing.
I will also discuss Berber dress soon. It's really unique something that excites me, and I feel that that post deserves more time and brain power than I'm willing to spend/able to muster up right now.
Last weekend was only the beginning of my party-like-a-Peace-Corps-Volunteer phase of service. This week I was invited to five (5) parties. In the States, I was usually only invited to about four parties per month... so you can only imagine how surprised I was to realize that coming to Morocco and shunning my extravagant lifestyle had actually bolstered my personal life. Let me run down the invites with you:
Wednesday: Party at the grade school across from my apartment (which I move into in four days!), celebrating the end of the school year. I could not attend due to a Peace Corps Site Visit.
Thursday: Same school, different party. I could not attend as I was busy working on a project with another volunteer.
Friday: Party at the local women's club -- called a nedi -- to celebrate the end of the year (when the school closes down, the nedi closes down too). I attended, but left early for personal reasons.
note: someone who was at the nedi for the party, and saw me leave early, cited the death of Michael Jackson as the reason I left early. She told my mom that I left in tears. Whoever you are, thanks a lot.
Friday, after the party at the nedi: I was invited to a party... at my house. I was told of the party before inserting the key into the door of my apartment by three of my most loyal fans (I have a fan club of eight-year-old girls, by the way. More on that later.). The invitation went a little stomething like this:
Three little girls: Nicole, Nicole! There's going to be a party tomorrow! Do you want to come?
Me: That's great, guys! Of course I do. Who's throwing it?
The girls: We are!!!!!!!
Me: Oh, that's wonderful! Where is it going to be?
The girls: At your house!
Me: Um, where is that? I don't have a house yet.
The girls: Right here! At your apartment! Isn't that great?
Me: Girls, I don't live here yet. I still live with my family on the other side of the river.
The Girls: Oh, that's okay. You can just open the door for us and we'll do the rest. Okay? Is that okay? Oh please, Nicole, it'll be great!
Needless to say, I declined.
Bottom line: my house is not a playground.
Saturday: My host dad received a call at 11:30p, as the family and I were sitting down to dinner. He passed the phone along to me (which was super weird) and on the other end was a friend of mine, who started our conversation with "Nicole, do you know where I am right now?" It turns out that he was in front of my house. He invited me to a party a few neighborhoods away, and I was out until 4:00a. If that doesn't get your attention, maybe the fact that this party had security guards will.
Security guards.
Aside from bouncers, I've never been to a party with security guards before.
Weeeeekwakin!
That's all the news that's fit to print right now. This week will bring a bit of traveling, a visit to another host family and a move into my very own apartment (!!!!), so there'll be another post coming at the end of the week, inshaAllah.
28 June 2009
21 June 2009
My First Moroccan All-Nighter, part I.
Yesterday and today, was my first Berber wedding here in the south of Morocco (which is actually the middle of the country when you include the Western Sahara, but you get the idea). I am a creature that thrives on sleep and food, and as a result of last night's party-hard-with-the-Berber-women attitude and exclusively-meat tagines, I am pretty brain-dead (and hungry, as I don't eat meat). I will try to break up the activities into periods of time, so you and I can both account for where the last 36 hours of my life went. Typos and poor choices of grammatical items might be prevalent.
Friday
1a: Bedtime, due to a late dinner and the kids getting douches (that's Moroccan for bucket-bath). In my previous life, I used to go to bed at 10p. I miss that life sometimes.
Saturday
6:30a: Good morning! Breakfast, getting dressed in outfit number one (a kaftan and amlhof), getting the kids ready to get out the door.
9a: catch the bus to the site of the wedding, maybe 25k down the road. Moroccans in my area don't typically own their own vehicles, so they're not accustomed to riding in a bus or car. What I'm trying to say is that vomiting is a common occurence on public transportation here, and the five Moroccans that I accompanied to the wedding ended up losing their breakfast. As they were all sitting next to me, it created this eerie stereo-effect, and had me (needlessly) questioning the strength of my own viscera.
I'm tough as nails, ladies and gentlemen.
Luckily, motion sickness passes quickly, and they were ready for a snack as soon as we got off the bus. We ate, bought some sugar to bring to the house per local custom, got in a taxi, and got to the wedding around 11a.
11a-7:30p: Breakfast, lunch, and tea were all served. Those early to arrive, like us, got henna-ed. There was a costume change (we all had two outfits for this wedding. Mine was a djellaba and amlhof), lots of sitting, eating and mingling, and a bunch of ahwash-ing (women singing, clapping and turning anything they can find into a percussion instrument). There was intermittent napping, but as I was a commodity (an American that looks like a Berber? That can't be possible!), I only got about 20 minutes in before I had to get up and explain again that I am not Berber-American, and that my family is from America, and that I speak English. I was also re-named Aicha, bringing the tally to five Moroccan names given to me in four months.
7:30-10ish: My first time seeing the bride was at 7:35p (I actually checked my watch), when the party migrated to the room with the bride and groom's decorated love-throne (love-seat just doesn't do that piece of furniture justice). More enthusiastic ahwash-ing, the passing out of dates and milk and a photo session with the bride and groom were the main focuses of this portion of the ceremony.
This is also when I got a phone call from my parents that there had been more fraud on my credit card, and that the credit card company needs to talk to me and not my Power of Attorney, even though the point of appointing a Power of Attorney is so I don't have to do the talking while I'm here. They gave my mom an in-country phone number to pass along to me, so I could call them.
The number doesn't work.
Do they even know where Morocco is?
10ish p-2a: Sitting and chatting, dinner, tea, more sitting and chatting and ahwash. I'm starting to lose it at this point. I want some vegetables and a nap!
2a-4a: The official ahwash celebrating the bride and groom. Held outside and in mixed company, this was the most vibrant part of the celebration for me, and everyone loved it. I went to bed at 4, though the celebration went on until about 5a, I was told.
6:30a: Wake up, breakfast, change back into outfit number one, out the door.
8a: We watch the bus that we woke up early to catch, pass us by as we're walking out the door. We're sad.
8-9:30: Waiting for a taxi home. I also learn that motion sickness is not only limited to buses.
10:15a: Home! Change clothes, freshen up and head out to souq for tutoring and a tea date.
I'll get on to describing the Berber fashions that I saw at this wedding, including the amlhof I was wearing, when I get some sleep. Look for an update on Wednesday, insha'Allah.
P.S. Happy Father's Day, dad! I love you.
Friday
1a: Bedtime, due to a late dinner and the kids getting douches (that's Moroccan for bucket-bath). In my previous life, I used to go to bed at 10p. I miss that life sometimes.
Saturday
6:30a: Good morning! Breakfast, getting dressed in outfit number one (a kaftan and amlhof), getting the kids ready to get out the door.
9a: catch the bus to the site of the wedding, maybe 25k down the road. Moroccans in my area don't typically own their own vehicles, so they're not accustomed to riding in a bus or car. What I'm trying to say is that vomiting is a common occurence on public transportation here, and the five Moroccans that I accompanied to the wedding ended up losing their breakfast. As they were all sitting next to me, it created this eerie stereo-effect, and had me (needlessly) questioning the strength of my own viscera.
I'm tough as nails, ladies and gentlemen.
Luckily, motion sickness passes quickly, and they were ready for a snack as soon as we got off the bus. We ate, bought some sugar to bring to the house per local custom, got in a taxi, and got to the wedding around 11a.
11a-7:30p: Breakfast, lunch, and tea were all served. Those early to arrive, like us, got henna-ed. There was a costume change (we all had two outfits for this wedding. Mine was a djellaba and amlhof), lots of sitting, eating and mingling, and a bunch of ahwash-ing (women singing, clapping and turning anything they can find into a percussion instrument). There was intermittent napping, but as I was a commodity (an American that looks like a Berber? That can't be possible!), I only got about 20 minutes in before I had to get up and explain again that I am not Berber-American, and that my family is from America, and that I speak English. I was also re-named Aicha, bringing the tally to five Moroccan names given to me in four months.
7:30-10ish: My first time seeing the bride was at 7:35p (I actually checked my watch), when the party migrated to the room with the bride and groom's decorated love-throne (love-seat just doesn't do that piece of furniture justice). More enthusiastic ahwash-ing, the passing out of dates and milk and a photo session with the bride and groom were the main focuses of this portion of the ceremony.
This is also when I got a phone call from my parents that there had been more fraud on my credit card, and that the credit card company needs to talk to me and not my Power of Attorney, even though the point of appointing a Power of Attorney is so I don't have to do the talking while I'm here. They gave my mom an in-country phone number to pass along to me, so I could call them.
The number doesn't work.
Do they even know where Morocco is?
10ish p-2a: Sitting and chatting, dinner, tea, more sitting and chatting and ahwash. I'm starting to lose it at this point. I want some vegetables and a nap!
2a-4a: The official ahwash celebrating the bride and groom. Held outside and in mixed company, this was the most vibrant part of the celebration for me, and everyone loved it. I went to bed at 4, though the celebration went on until about 5a, I was told.
6:30a: Wake up, breakfast, change back into outfit number one, out the door.
8a: We watch the bus that we woke up early to catch, pass us by as we're walking out the door. We're sad.
8-9:30: Waiting for a taxi home. I also learn that motion sickness is not only limited to buses.
10:15a: Home! Change clothes, freshen up and head out to souq for tutoring and a tea date.
I'll get on to describing the Berber fashions that I saw at this wedding, including the amlhof I was wearing, when I get some sleep. Look for an update on Wednesday, insha'Allah.
P.S. Happy Father's Day, dad! I love you.
13 June 2009
Keeping you in the loop.
The updated counts:
Scorpions: 2
The most recent one was chilling on the rug in my bedroom last night. My little brother found it and shouted, saving me the effort. Things weren't nearly as dramatic as they were last time, save the fact that this scorpion was a mere foot from where I sleep.
Camel spiders: 1
The first one was also in my bedroom, but was small and willing to die. I appreciated that.
Kisses on the mouth from my 5-year-old hostbrother: 4.5
He's really, really cute, so I feel bad shoo-ing him away. The half-kiss that I accounted for was one awarded to me with a set of plastic lips.
The unrelated akhbar:
-A good friend of mine is now on examiner.com! Please check her out: http://www.examiner.com/x-8519-Detroit-Muslim-Examiner
-My schedule is changing, now that I've started formal tutoring. Tuesday is still my favorite souq day, but Sundays will probably be best for Skype-ing. I'll give official word when I, uh... make up my mind. Please keep in mind that I'm on GMT+1.
Scorpions: 2
The most recent one was chilling on the rug in my bedroom last night. My little brother found it and shouted, saving me the effort. Things weren't nearly as dramatic as they were last time, save the fact that this scorpion was a mere foot from where I sleep.
Camel spiders: 1
The first one was also in my bedroom, but was small and willing to die. I appreciated that.
Kisses on the mouth from my 5-year-old hostbrother: 4.5
He's really, really cute, so I feel bad shoo-ing him away. The half-kiss that I accounted for was one awarded to me with a set of plastic lips.
The unrelated akhbar:
-A good friend of mine is now on examiner.com! Please check her out: http://www.examiner.com/x-8519-Detroit-Muslim-Examiner
-My schedule is changing, now that I've started formal tutoring. Tuesday is still my favorite souq day, but Sundays will probably be best for Skype-ing. I'll give official word when I, uh... make up my mind. Please keep in mind that I'm on GMT+1.
09 June 2009
Is your motherland having an election today?
The title of this post is actually part of a text that I received a few days ago. And while the text was referring to the elections held in The Old Country -- Lebanon -- there also happened to be a parade going on in the street below my apartment, in honor of the upcoming Moroccan elections on Friday. It was my first Moroccan parade, and while it was small and contained no marching band, it was still quite an experience.
I've been handed many a flyer in the past few days, but my repulsion for politics, coupled with the fact that I am not a citizen of Morocco, means that this week I'll have to wallflower. The schools, neddi, and other associaton- and commune-run activites have been slowed down or stopped completely for the week, as all energies and resources are going toward the inti7abat. I'm interested in the issues (which include a topic near and dear to my heart: transportation), but I'm advised by PC to remain politically-unaffiliated, both domestically and, uh... internationally.
It's been interesting to experience, so far, as the buzz of the election is tangible wherever you go. This morning, my taxi driver had flyers (or is it fliers?) for a candidate on the dashboard. Last night, my brother and sister entertained themselves for hours with the 40-something flyers they had collected earlier that day. While these kids are five and eight, they can sense that this is an exciting time for the community. It'll be exciting to see what happens after Friday!
On a much less exciting note, I paid rent on my apartment for the first time yesterday, and will pay my electric bill after finishing this post. Nothing to write home about, but it does make me feel a bit more like I am indeed a member of the community, and not just an extended houseguest who insists on trying to speak Berber.
I've been handed many a flyer in the past few days, but my repulsion for politics, coupled with the fact that I am not a citizen of Morocco, means that this week I'll have to wallflower. The schools, neddi, and other associaton- and commune-run activites have been slowed down or stopped completely for the week, as all energies and resources are going toward the inti7abat. I'm interested in the issues (which include a topic near and dear to my heart: transportation), but I'm advised by PC to remain politically-unaffiliated, both domestically and, uh... internationally.
It's been interesting to experience, so far, as the buzz of the election is tangible wherever you go. This morning, my taxi driver had flyers (or is it fliers?) for a candidate on the dashboard. Last night, my brother and sister entertained themselves for hours with the 40-something flyers they had collected earlier that day. While these kids are five and eight, they can sense that this is an exciting time for the community. It'll be exciting to see what happens after Friday!
On a much less exciting note, I paid rent on my apartment for the first time yesterday, and will pay my electric bill after finishing this post. Nothing to write home about, but it does make me feel a bit more like I am indeed a member of the community, and not just an extended houseguest who insists on trying to speak Berber.
06 June 2009
Beeping: A Moroccan Mystery
I like to consider myself to be pretty with-it when it comes to techy stuff, but I must admit that I cannot wrap my mind around the idea of beeping.
Beeping, for those that don't know, is pretty much the Moroccan equivalent to the text message. Texting is popular here, as well as in the States, but beeping is free. And in the pre-pay world, free is good.
Wait -- sorry, let me back up farther.
The large majority of cell phones in Morocco are pre-paid, meaning that both calls and texts cost money. Incoming anything is free, but outgoing is not. There are no minutes included, or free nights and weekends, or any of that jazz. There is also no unlimited texting, which breaks my heart (and occasionally, my bank). However, when you make a phone call and the other person doesn't pick up, that phone call is free (as there was no connection).
This -- calling somone and hanging up before the other party picks up -- is called beeping. It's quite popular here in both the Moroccan and PCV community, but I cannot get the hang of it. A beep can mean a number of things, I'm told, like the following:
-"I'm thinking of you and wanted to say hello."
-"Call me, I have to talk to you but I can't afford it."
-"I'm here/there/where we agreed to meet."
-"Are you coming?"
-"I'm waiting for you."
While I am a fan of options, I am a bigger fan of clear styles of communication. And for me, the beep isn't sufficient. I will now provide you two examples, along with my thoughts on the situation, to show you how your phone ringing once and hanging up can actually mean a number of things.
1. I was standing by my taxi tree this morning, waiting for a taxi into my souq town (what else would one be waiting for, next to the taxi tree?) where I was going to meet Hinde and Fadma, from way back in CBT, for a weekend of fun in my site. I was then beeped by Hinde.
Does this beep mean that they've arrived in my souqtown?
Or that they're just leaving their souq town?
Or that Hinde wants me to call her back because she can't come out this weekend but is low on minutes?
Maybe I have an overactive imagination? Let me give another example:
2. Approximately five days ago, I had a short text conversation with a Moroccan friend of mine. We volleyed back and forth about three times each, and very obviously ended the conversation. Then, this friend beeps me.
Have a good night?
I'm still thinking about you, even though we just said good night five minutes ago?
I have something more to say but it to be a surprise?!
I confessed my ignorance of the beep to a fellow PCV after situation number 2 happened, and to my relief, I found another confused party.
That makes two of us.
Beeping, for those that don't know, is pretty much the Moroccan equivalent to the text message. Texting is popular here, as well as in the States, but beeping is free. And in the pre-pay world, free is good.
Wait -- sorry, let me back up farther.
The large majority of cell phones in Morocco are pre-paid, meaning that both calls and texts cost money. Incoming anything is free, but outgoing is not. There are no minutes included, or free nights and weekends, or any of that jazz. There is also no unlimited texting, which breaks my heart (and occasionally, my bank). However, when you make a phone call and the other person doesn't pick up, that phone call is free (as there was no connection).
This -- calling somone and hanging up before the other party picks up -- is called beeping. It's quite popular here in both the Moroccan and PCV community, but I cannot get the hang of it. A beep can mean a number of things, I'm told, like the following:
-"I'm thinking of you and wanted to say hello."
-"Call me, I have to talk to you but I can't afford it."
-"I'm here/there/where we agreed to meet."
-"Are you coming?"
-"I'm waiting for you."
While I am a fan of options, I am a bigger fan of clear styles of communication. And for me, the beep isn't sufficient. I will now provide you two examples, along with my thoughts on the situation, to show you how your phone ringing once and hanging up can actually mean a number of things.
1. I was standing by my taxi tree this morning, waiting for a taxi into my souq town (what else would one be waiting for, next to the taxi tree?) where I was going to meet Hinde and Fadma, from way back in CBT, for a weekend of fun in my site. I was then beeped by Hinde.
Does this beep mean that they've arrived in my souqtown?
Or that they're just leaving their souq town?
Or that Hinde wants me to call her back because she can't come out this weekend but is low on minutes?
Maybe I have an overactive imagination? Let me give another example:
2. Approximately five days ago, I had a short text conversation with a Moroccan friend of mine. We volleyed back and forth about three times each, and very obviously ended the conversation. Then, this friend beeps me.
Have a good night?
I'm still thinking about you, even though we just said good night five minutes ago?
I have something more to say but it to be a surprise?!
I confessed my ignorance of the beep to a fellow PCV after situation number 2 happened, and to my relief, I found another confused party.
That makes two of us.
L-mohim iga...
Mohim: the most important thing; that which takes presidence; the matter you should really concern yourself with right now.
I'm not at all political, but this is important.
Really important.
Like, mohim.
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/americas/8082862.stm
I'm not at all political, but this is important.
Really important.
Like, mohim.
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/americas/8082862.stm
02 June 2009
These are a few of my favorite... wait, what time is it again?
First things first:
For the second time in recent memory, Morocco has decided to observe an abbreviated Daylight Savings Time, starting yesterday and ending whenever Ramadan begins this summer, which will be sometime in the middle of August. This transition is awkward in the cities, but in my little village, things are all a-muck with questions of new time versus old time. The little old Berber ladies that I knit and drink tea with are either with it, or very much without. As in the language of Tashlheit, there is no grey area when it comes to time. You are either on old time or new time.
Sa3a ljdeed, or new time = GMT + 1 = 5 hours ahead of EST
Sa3a tqdeem, or old time = GMT = 4 hours ahead of EST
For the record, I plan on living my life according to new time... even though my host family is running on old time. This results in me losing a bit of sleep (both at night and during my siesta, as my afternoons run on new time), but I'm a big girl and I can deal with being exhausted for one more month.
Second things next:
I am asked a lot of questions here in Morocco, regarding everything from what I'm wearing to when I'm planning to marry someone's son. While I am not yet funny in Tashlheit, I do love to internally laugh when I hear these. Here are some of my favorites:
-Why do you wear your glasses? To be fashionable?
-Are you married? Why not? Do you want to marry a Moroccan? Do you want to marry someone from this village?
-Do you do gymnastics? Can you do the splits? Why not?
-How did you get so skinny?
note: this one's funny because I've actually gained weight since arriving here.
-Do you do sport? Should I do sport to get skinny?
-Do you think (insert a person's name here) is difficult? C'mon, you can tell me the truth!
-Are you fasting? Is Islam difficult? Do you like Islam? Do you pray?
-Is Obama good? Better than George Bush? Do you like George Bush? Do you know Obama?
-Where are you from? No, where are you really from? Where's your family from?
-Do you have (insert any common noun here, from sheep to taxis) in America?
Ahh, if only I could express sarcasm in Tashlheit...
For the second time in recent memory, Morocco has decided to observe an abbreviated Daylight Savings Time, starting yesterday and ending whenever Ramadan begins this summer, which will be sometime in the middle of August. This transition is awkward in the cities, but in my little village, things are all a-muck with questions of new time versus old time. The little old Berber ladies that I knit and drink tea with are either with it, or very much without. As in the language of Tashlheit, there is no grey area when it comes to time. You are either on old time or new time.
Sa3a ljdeed, or new time = GMT + 1 = 5 hours ahead of EST
Sa3a tqdeem, or old time = GMT = 4 hours ahead of EST
For the record, I plan on living my life according to new time... even though my host family is running on old time. This results in me losing a bit of sleep (both at night and during my siesta, as my afternoons run on new time), but I'm a big girl and I can deal with being exhausted for one more month.
Second things next:
I am asked a lot of questions here in Morocco, regarding everything from what I'm wearing to when I'm planning to marry someone's son. While I am not yet funny in Tashlheit, I do love to internally laugh when I hear these. Here are some of my favorites:
-Why do you wear your glasses? To be fashionable?
-Are you married? Why not? Do you want to marry a Moroccan? Do you want to marry someone from this village?
-Do you do gymnastics? Can you do the splits? Why not?
-How did you get so skinny?
note: this one's funny because I've actually gained weight since arriving here.
-Do you do sport? Should I do sport to get skinny?
-Do you think (insert a person's name here) is difficult? C'mon, you can tell me the truth!
-Are you fasting? Is Islam difficult? Do you like Islam? Do you pray?
-Is Obama good? Better than George Bush? Do you like George Bush? Do you know Obama?
-Where are you from? No, where are you really from? Where's your family from?
-Do you have (insert any common noun here, from sheep to taxis) in America?
Ahh, if only I could express sarcasm in Tashlheit...
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